Wednesday, August 1, 2012

FIRST STOP: Ten Sleep, Wyoming


THIS PLACE IS CHOSS. DON'T GO HERE. PLEASE SEE BELOW.
Rock fall...?
Now I know that probably only three people total read this blog (thanks for reading Mom!)- and given the above photo, only two of you have probably continued reading to this point. You will now be rewarded for your persistence and blind, unwarranted faith in my blogging abilities so both of you listen up- this place is, to quote the guidebook, “the buttery sickness”. 
Mmm... so buttery...
Located outside the tiny “town” of Ten Sleep (where the elevation is higher than the population) are miles and miles of pristine bighorn dolomite. Driving through the canyon is like watching a real life magic eye unfolding before your eyes. There is free camping, which is stellar as long as you can forgo running water and don’t mind bringing bug spray and a shovel on your morning trips to the bathroom. The locals and the other climbers who make the trip out are friendly and laidback. Showers are available at the RV park in town for $5, although we opted for a little Bronner’s and the free freezing waters of Ten Sleep Creek instead. The Second Street Bakery in town has great food and caffeinated beverages- but whatever you do, DON’T EAT MEXICAN IN WYOMING. I am fairly certain there are no actual Mexicans in Wyoming. At least none that can cook.
I will serenade you while you bathe down by the river.
 Now for the climbing. Ahhhh the CLIMBING. While I am looking forward to the next stops on our cross-country adventure, I literally had to be dragged kicking and screaming from Ten Sleep this year. I am more hooked on that place than ever and I have no doubt I will be back in the near future. If you are interested in going to Ten Sleep, I would highly recommend purchasing the guidebook and reading it cover to cover. It’s a sick, demented and hilarious religious handbook with occasional references to rock climbing. In the meantime, we’ve decided to give you a highlight reel of each of our favorite climbs from this past week. Enjoy.
Lauren: Thor 5.10b at the World Domination Wall
A little Greek god loving is all Lauren needs
 Completely and utterly classic. A little face climbing gives way to a fun crack with a combination of underclings and laybacks and then a headwall. Tall, aesthetic with great positioning. Did I mention CLASSIC? Lauren’s “game changer”.
Derek: Jesus Christ Super Jew 5.10d at Metropolis
What exactly can I jam into this crack....?
Starts with a hand and foot jam crux right off the deck. Don’t worry though- the fun and groveling doesn’t end there. Let go of your pride and skin as you thrust and torque every appendage into the crack. Feels more like trad climbing than sport (no wonder it was Derek’s favorite). Although you’ll be all up in that crack, don’t forget to look around- the view of the canyon from this climb is spectacular.
Me: Cocaine Rodeo 5.12a at Valhalla
Cocaine. My drug of choice.
Crux, rest, crux, rest, headwall, hallucinate. Any description I write of this climb will not do it justice so please refer to the guidebook description below:
After an AMAZING time at Ten Sleep, I can’t wait to see what is next for the three of us. We only left Wyoming a day ago and already we’re had some incredible locally raised and brewed burgers and beers, played with a domesticated lobster named Nudles and slept under the Montana stars.
For now, I leave you with Nudles.
Why the heck does the lobster get the chicken??

5 comments:

  1. Thor and Cocaine rodeo are siiick

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  2. Love your blog! You inspire me to learn how to rock climb...and go cross country! Keep up the awesome adventures and free spirit. Peace :)

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  3. Those routes look insane. You gals (and guy) are amazing climbers! Safe journeys for the rest of your trip.

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  4. mexicans might not be able to cook, but youve got a perfectly good peruvian that can cook AND serenade you with a banjo!

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